On this day three years ago I was participating in a three-day trip that would take me from Deland, FL to Vienna, Austria via private aircraft. It was such a unique experience that I decided to recount it on its three year anniversary.

Goose Bay
Arriving at the Ottawa airport at 5AM local (2AM California time), we were met by a full compliment of airport crew. Seems they weren’t seeing us off, but they were there to welcome the NY Rangers hockey team on a charter from their previous game in Calgary. Unfortunately, we launched too early to meet the arriving Rangers. (And my math suggests the Rangers left Calgary at 2AM local after their game to get to Ottawa at 5AM. Sure doesn’t sound like fun to me!)
Our departure from Ottawa was in complete darkness, and for the next two hours we droned along without lights from below (no one seems to live in NE Canada) nor above (overcast). Even as the sun rose, and for the last hour to Goose Bay, there was no visibility until we broke out 1,000 feet above the runway in the winter snow. Gorgeous, but cold. -15C if you’re interested.

Immersion Suit
The Goose Bay folk were extremely friendly, filled us with coffee and danish, and helped us try on our immersions suits – Just in case we needed to immerse ourselves in the North Atlantic Ocean. Serious, but not without some hopelessly funny moments.
We found out another turbine Malibu (N194JL) had preceded us by two hours, but after launching back in to the clouds toward Narsarsuaq, we soon found ourselves the loneliest pilots in the sky. And when Gander told us “Radar contact lost, squawk 2000,” we knew we were on our own. No radar and only intermittent radio for over a thousand miles of cold, dark Atlantic Ocean.
Once in a while we would hear west-bound commercial flights overhead exchanging ride reports, but it was pretty clear we were the only people in the sky at 27,000 feet for miles and miles and miles. We never heard another non-commercial flight. And just to frustrate us, a low pressure zone, while providing a nice tail-wind, was also reducing visibility to less than a mile. We saw gray in every direction and wouldn’t have known if we were over land or water. Reaching our “fuel point of no return” (either continue to Narsarsuaq or return to Goose Bay) we started overhearing reports Narsarsuaq was sunny and clear. That would be nice – We hadn’t seen blue sky since Florida.

Over Narsarsuaq
About twenty miles from Greenland landfall, the skies parted and revealed a beautiful Alp-like scenery. And thirty miles later, and still thirty miles from Narsarsuaq, we saw the field, canceled our flight plan and approached the scenic airport – The lone controller told us there was no other airport traffic, no other area traffic and no other anticipated traffic. Land at your leisure – And we did.
It was eerie standing alone on that runway after engine shutdown. Not a sound except for the wind howling through the mountains and fjords. I swear I heard Indian chanting, but it was probably just my imagination. Too soon we were refueled and launched back into the blue sky. An approaching Dash 7 turboprop heard us leave and offered in a heavy, Nordic accent:
“To my friends in the departing Piper Malibu. It is beautiful and sunny in Narsarsuaq. Why don’t you stay a while and enjoy our hospitality and friendship instead of flying off to Europe and all that winter rain?”

Narsarsuaq Airport
Never would have heard that in American skies! But we needed to continue, thanked our new pilot friend, and turned further northeast toward Kelflavik. We spent another 20 minutes over Greenland enjoying the glaciers, the mountains and the virgin, white snow, but once back over the ocean, we entered the clouds.
And with nightfall less than an hour away it was getting cold at 27,000 feet. Specifically, the outside air temperature was -44C and simply overwhelming our limited aircraft heater. We droned on for another two hours in the dark, cold, cloudy sky trying just about anything to keep warm.
And then, maybe six or seven hours after losing radar contact, another controller crackles through the static with the words “Radar contact, squawk 7206, contact Keflavik on 119.7.” And with that, the biggest part of the adventure had ended. Iceland could see and communicate with us, and we would be on the ground in another hour. It was cold and dark and windy (Winter in Iceland, who would have thunk?) but only a cab ride separated us from dinner and a beer. Yum!
We’re at the most northern part of our journey right now, in a country where winter sunrise is 10AM and sunset is 5PM. Tomorrow we cross the last major body of water, the North Sea, and proceed to Scotland and finally Austria. I guarantee that unlike the North Atlantic, we won’t be the only ones in the sky.
I need some shut-eye so I’m ready to go tomorrow!